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Odessa in October (Kiev)

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Hello,

I will be in Odessa for curious sightseeing in October for 4 days.

Looking for information about
- nice, central, safe, reasonably priced appartment
- interesting sites to visit other than those mentioned in the (only available) guide book
- specially interested in galleries, exhibitions, art scene events
- websites that show these info, other than the official tourist websites
- nice places to go to (bars, restaurants, clubs, cafes), as for athmosphere, quality, people
- which tourist traps to be avoided

Any of your hints are welcome.
Jessica

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