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Coming to Ciudad Mexico! (Mexico City)

Hello InterNations!

It's likely I'll be traveling to Ciudad México -- that's Mexico City to us Anglophones -- on or around December 12th, to participate in the Feast of La Virgen de Guadalupe. I've been once before, and so I have a basic knowledge of the city, but that's about it.

I'd love the InterNations recommendations on things to see and do there -- with the caveat that I've seen most of the "big" tourist stuff already. (That is, the Zocalo, Templo Mayor, Chapultepec, Anthropological Museum, etc.) Here's what I'm interested in:

1) Great places to eat. Not five-star restaurants, but accessible and interesting places where I can really enjoy genuinely good Mexican fare. Street food is fine!

2) Excellent neighborhoods to wander about. Always a plus.

3) Bookstores and cafes!

4) Museums off the beaten path.

Any and all advice is most welcome -- and thanks in advance!

-- Josh